In case anyone is looking at either of these (I see a couple of Sp01's on the board) these are the LIGHTEST recoiling 9mms you will likely ever shoot. Just had mine to the range again and it still amazes me how light the recoil is and as usual they ran flawlessly with any ammo I have used..

These are all steel and they have a reputation for being heavy but to me they are nicely balanced and weight does not really seem to be a factor.

The compact carries nicely I use an OWB holster but have carried it IWB as well.

I bought some Cajun Gun Works parts to lighten the trigger but have not installed them since the trigger on both is quite good.

I imagine if you are a very serious competitor upgrading the parts would make a difference to you but for the everyday shooter
the triggers are pretty good. Only thing I have changed is the recoil spring guide since they both came with polymer ones and I changed them to stainless. Both ran fine with the polymer guides but I prefer the ss ones...that is just me.

The compact is a safety type and the SP01 Tactical is a de-cocker. De-cocker is a bit more complicated to work on if you wanted to but I like being able to de-cock the hammer without having to use the "roll the thumb" method like on the Compact.

If you are looking at any of the SP01's on the board I can tell you that if the used gun is in good shape then you won;t be disappointed.


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Thanks for this. I wanted my first CZ DA/SA after decades of striker fired and grabbed a 75b a couple weeks ago and love it. But I really wanted an SP01, so it seems I'll be picking one up this week as well. Is the SP01 a big recoil difference over the 75B? I just started competitions as well and am excited to try out a CZ out there. I am curious what signs of wear to be weary of on them and about the difficulty level of working on them.

I have a P-01 and a an SP-01T. Both used guns.

Other than qualifying annually with the M9 (retired Marine), I am a fairly novice shooter, and I had zero experience "working on" firearms, but enjoy tinkering and learning. But the P-01 trigger was a little rough compared to the expectations I had for it. I don't compete, so I couldn't justify the cost of sending it off for Cajunization. So I bought the MCarbo spring kit and started researching How-To videos, and was able to figure it out, though that decocker search cage is indeed a tricky booger. But once complete, the trigger was much nicer and I really love shooting it.

Part of the reason I bought this particular SP-01T was it had already been Cajunized, and between that and the extra hefty it really is fun to shoot.

Next I plan on getting a more traditional CZ with the classic lines without the rail. Either a PCR or a standard full size CZ75.

Can't go wrong with a full size CZ-75.

The P-10-Cs are supposed to have better triggers than a CZ-75. I recently bought one, but not enough range time to determine that and also not able to do a side-by-side comparison.

Recoil in both the 75 Compact and SP01 I have are very light compared to other pistols I have had/used. They are fairly easy to work on but tinkering with the decocker mechanism takes patience, lots of little parts and springs.

Three known weaknesses are the factory trigger return spring, the
the slide stop and the firing pin retainer.

CZ states that the trigger return spring and the slide stop are considered as "maintenance parts" so it is expected that they be replaced periodically, they say about 7K rounds for the slide stop and about 5K rounds for the trigger return spring, or they can break. So it is good to buy spares and have them on hand.

If you dry fire these pistols without snap caps the hammer drives the firing pin forward and without something to absorb the impact (like a cartridge or snap cap) the firing pin will impact the retaining pin and all energy will be imparted onto the retaining pin. Repeated dry firing will cause the retaining pin (which is fairly soft from the factory) to fail.

So if you dry fire a lot it is good to use snap caps or you can put a little "O" ring in the frame in front of the where the hammer strikes the firing pin to keep the firing pin from going all the way forward at full force.

I found the triggers to be ok for me right out of the box but I am not a competition shooter. You can improve the pull just by replacing the trigger return spring with one from MCARBO or Wolf.

If that doesn't do it for you, then you can replace the hammer spring as well, both are easy to do but if you go too light on the hammer spring you might get light primer strikes so it is best to get the spring kit from Wolf and try different pull weights or if you really must go light there are aftermarket firing pins that are slightly extended. If it were me, I wouldn't mix firing pin springs and firing pins from different manufacturers or you might have reliability problems.

One other part that I replace is the factory recoil spring rod, they are polymer from the factory and I prefer to replace them with stainless versions.