Get a few folks asking from time to time...

We all load differently.

This is my station for rifle and magnum pistol. (Bulk pistol is done on a progressive Dillon).



It is not fast... 200+/- rounds per evening, but it is steady. My brass is all processed BEFORE HAND.

Other are encouraged to cross post on this Forum.

Cost?

Chargemaster is $300 or less.

RCBS priming station is $70 or less.

RCBS Rockchucker is $100 used.

Dies are $25 or so... used.

Misc. funnels etc.

You are looking at $500 on my bench.

When I finish reloading I will sell everything on my bench (except the priming station (it belongs to a friend)) for 80% of new. So for simple math... it will cost me $50-$70 to load lots of premium ammo (plus the cost of components). I load around $4-$6 a box... vs. $20 to $80 a box.

Not bad.

I have owned two gently used Dillons (for bulk pistol), bought both at 80% of new... Loaded ammo... sold the machines after for 80% of new... FREE RENTAL.

Just do it.

This is how I do it... Others reload differently.

Lube brass before resizing...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgsimvLoddo

*apologies the guy in the video above is such a dweeb.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0117UuXiSS4

Personally, I let mine dry overnight to flash off the alcohol.

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Resizing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCi6kp4d1Jo

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Brass trim video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWyWz-tzJ10

I chuck my drill in a heavy duty vise. I like everything steady and stable. My drill is a $10 yard sale 120v 3/8" with variable speed... locked into a $100 6" vise.

Here are a couple steps I like to do. (These might be in the videos--I get fidgety and can't sit through long homemade videos....)

After tumbling, I clean the inside neck with a neck brush chucked in a drill. I like the inside neck surface to be clean and polished smooth. This step also helps remove any bits of tumbling media that can be left in the cases.

After sizing, trimming and chamfering, I wash the brass with a liquid case cleaner to remove the case lube and any debris (brass filings).

Just my process....

I hate long videos as well...





Need to post on that as well... easy as pie.



Smart... I do the same on a https://www.hornady.com/reloading/case-care/case-prep-tools/power-case-prep-center-trim-length-gauge

There are MUCH CHEAPER solutions on case prep than the Hornady.

Chamfer Inside the neck after trimming to debur...



Chamfer Outside of neck after chamfering inside...



Brush inside the neck to scrub off any debris...



I also sharpen the tip of my brush to knock out any debris or tumbling media in the flash hole...

Not particularly fast, but a good slow and steady evening prepping .30-06 snackage for my old Garand...

I haven't done a lot of rifle yet, it's been handgun mostly. How many times can you chamfer the brass before it becomes too short?

Chamfering does not really shorten the brass... it is done to debur after the trim...

Other may offer different opinions, but my experience is that the initial trim and chamfer will be good for 2-3 loadings as long as your loads are "reasonable". Very hot loads will re-stretch the brass.

I quick rechamfer never hurts... and aids in bullet seating.

Speak up here... or drop me a PM if you have questions.

10 days since my last posting... assuming a very typical rate of 200-350 loaded rounds per evening... that is 2,000 to 3,500 rounds of ammo.

At $0.20 a round to load that is $4 for a box of 20

100 boxes is 2,000 rounds for $400 loaded.

Walmart price on the same ammo is $2,000

FYI... Reloading does save money... and produces more accurate ammo typically

Step by step...

Place about 30-50 primers on my bench



Set a primer in the seater while the Chargemaster is throwing a VERY VERY precise charge of powder...



Set a brass in the priming station and seat a primer while Chargemaster is still throwing the charge. Brass is prepped before I load.



Powder into case...

After filling the case, I put the powder pan back on the Chargemaster and it is automatically stabilized and throws another perfect charge.

While this is happening I grab a bullet...



and move to the press and seat...



As long as the Chargemaster is in the middle of dispensing... the bullet seating process does not effect stability

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On a rare occasion I will bump the table and the charge is 0.1 grain too much. I dip out a tiny bit of powder.

I caliper check COAL (Cartridge Overall Length) on the first 5-10 rounds and verify perfect length as is recommend for the bullet being loaded. I recheck this about every 50 round after that.



I Case Gauge check every round...





And set them in their box...



With this process I can load about 2.6 rounds per minute or 156 per hour or 312 rounds per 2 hour session...

If I load 2 hours every night for a month that is 9,672 rounds per month and 116k rounds per year.

I do not shoot 116k rounds per year, but if I did, this is how I would feed my habit.

IF I were to sell premium Match ammo at $1 per round ($20/box) that would be $116k less $20k in components... for $96k divided by 730 labor hours per year... making my hourly wage $131.51

$131.51 x 2 hours per day x 365 days = $96,000

Thus... IMHO reloading is worth the effort.

*I DO NOT EVER SELL AMMO!!!

Some good data here... http://www.laddata.se/node?page=37

But I can't get registered and 1,045 pages to scroll thru is a PITA

.308W is on page 264+/-

.458 American... page 475

.340 Bee... 94

.458 WM... 877

.45-70... 28

6x45... 521

.338F... 281

358W... 734

35 Whelen... 84

9.3x62M... 906

270W... 436

.450 Marlin... 725

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Please post up other page numbers as you find them... Thank You!

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This one looks FUN!!!

3,310 FPS in your .358W

http://www.laddata.se/load/358-winchester-remington-golden-saber-125-grs-vihtavuori-n120-50-grs

Thanks for posting--good stuff.

I use a comparator vs overall length. It's an extra step but it seems more accurate, especially when loading to a specific rifle and chamber length.

How accurate is the Chargemaster? I still use the simple lever charger, set a little light. Then weigh and trickle up to full load. Really slow, but really accurate.

Thanks... wasn't sure if I was wasting my time or not.



When doing my method... not only does it drop to 0.1 of a grain perfectly... there is also a "6th sense" that was acquired by me that it is dropping 0.10 thru 0.13 on certain ball powders.

Some stick powders go 0.1 grain OVER on 50% of the throws... a quick dip with my the little Lee scoop and the proper charge is waiting as specified... my "6th sense" on these is that they are at the higher 1/100 grain range... say 60.17 to 60.19 (as an example).

If I wanted the light range on these stick powders... say 60.10 to 60.13... set at 59 and give a TINY tap on the dispensing tube... one or two gradual of powder drop out of the dispensing tube... and the charge read 60.1 (JUST BARELY... i.e. 60.10 to 60.13).

I went on a construction job once... young fella, just starting out in concrete... He was placing a slab on grade...

Concrete truck was on it's way... 5 minutes or less out.

Fella had tied the rebar perfectly... very well positioned... proper size... 100% G2G.

Plastic sheeting (vapor barrier) was required... The young fella used quality sheeting and installed perfectly... on top of his rebar.

Bottomline, he was nervous and had not thought out the job.

IT HAPPENS TO ALL OF US!!! NEVER LAUGH AT ANOTHER'S MISTAKES.

Reloading is NOT HARD AT ALL (need proof? I am a lugnut (just ask my wife) and I can do it well), BUT it does require you to think thru the process.

Why the story above? I watched a new reloader polish his brass super bright and shiny... they "bootleg lube" it dull, then resize... the polish again. Step 1 was not necessary.

I see a lot of questions about cost of reloading vs factory ammo, especially, asking if reloading is cheaper. I don't know. I got into handloading for accuracy/quality, not economy. I don't crank out 50 or 100 rounds for fun AR shooting. For me, it's about customized, quality loads. Dime-size, 5-shot groups make me happy.

You bet... accuracy is worth it alone...

Cost... can be a benefit also... especially if you catch a sale on XYZ at a gun show...

I caught primed .30-06 brass the other day for $0.04 each... I don't trust the primers for hunting loads, but I need more 9.3x62 Mauser brass... so I am loading up 7.3 grains of Clays... heaping scoop of COW (Cream of Wheat) on top... stuff in a tiny wad of paper and fire-forming 9.3x62 Mauser brass (I'll do another post explaining).

Bought a massive amount of Amerc ammo a few years back... brass was split at necks and cost slightly above free. Harvested the powder, sold the pills and reformed the brass into .300 B/O.

Still not sure what the powder is, but cross-multiplied .223 charge weight vs. .308 charge weights... worked up careful ladders and got it shooting very well...



Guy on VAGT sold me 40k+ pills one day for $3k ($0.075 or less per pill)... resold a bunch at a gun show for market value... mine became even cheaper.

That's some nice shooting!

Thank You Sir... those round cost about $2.80 to $3.00 (box of 20... including brass) to load. I forget exactly.

The 1500 chargemaster saves a lot of time for me. It is very accurate with most powders. The smaller the grain of powder the better it works. Reloading for precision requires a lot of attention to detail. Once you find the best load data duplicating case length, neck tension,case weight,and a few others requires time and patience. I shoot mostly at 600 yards with 6BR, and 6x47 lapua. Wind and mirage are factors, but I want to know the ammo is spot on.

So... after I reload a fair bit of a particular caliber... storage and organization comes next...

I use ammo cans with desiccant pods (homemade)... Silica cat litter in a old window sheer...



Ammo cans are super handy... for ammo storage. Imagine that!

HOWEVER... a Fat 50 ammo can loaded with bulk/loose 9mm ammo is VERY HEAVY... so I use 30 caliber cans for pistol ammo and save my Fat 50s for rifle... I use 40mm cans for skeet shells and 50 caliber cans for NON-skeet (duck, rabbit, buckshot etc.)

This chart (Excel spreadsheet) and colored duct tape from Walmart are how I do it.





I also met a GREAT FAMILY at the Dale City Gunshow that weaves awesome para-cord slings... so I never grab the wrong ammo/rifle for the wrong rifle/ammo.



* This color code chart is outdated... send me a PM if you need revised one or an Excel version.

* I will also sell you various duct tape colors (by the foot) so you do not have to buy whole rolls at $3.97 per roll... Price? What's a foot is worth... $0.20 - $0.25 maybe??? No profit... just trying to be helpful.

I use Avery 6576 labels (they are Laser Jet labels and waterproof/tough as nails). 32 labels on a page... 50 sheets in a box for around $25 at Jet.com

I use an Excel spreadsheet that makes 1 to 32 labels easy as pie.